How To Change Belt On Ge Front Load Washer
Washing Machine Repair
Chapter 3
WHIRLPOOL / KENMORE BELT DRIVE
NOTE: Affiliate 2 covers problems common to virtually all washer designs.
THIS chapter covers only diagnosis and repairs peculiar to Whirlpool-congenital washing machines.
If you do non read Affiliate 2 thoroughly earlier y'all read this affiliate,
you probably volition non be able to properly diagnose your automobile!!!!
The Whirlpool belt-driven blueprint is well over 30 years old. The basic design has remained nearly unchanged in that fourth dimension. Although information technology is extremely reliable, it does accept its quirks. Fortunately, having been effectually for so long, the peculiarities of the design are pretty well known.
3-1 BASIC OPERATION
The pattern uses a single direction motor, with solenoids to engage and disengage the arouse and spin cycles and pump. (Effigy W-1) The system of command solenoids is peculiar to this design. It'southward called a "wigwag."
Figure W-1: Drive Train
Whenever the motor is running, gears in the manual keep the wigwag rotating dorsum and forth in a move similar to the agitator. Each solenoid's plunger is attached to a yoke with a pin through it. This pin rides in a slot in the cam bar (more than virtually the cam bar later on.)
When i of the solenoids is energized, the plunger retracts.
The pivot in the plunger rides in a unlike part of the cam bar slot than before. (Figure W-2) Since the wigwag is constantly moving back and forth, the pivot will push the cam bar to a different position.
The pump turns in only i direction and has a flapper valve located within its housing. To change from recirculate to pumpout, the flapper valve changes position.
Figure W-ii: Cam Bar Action
AGITATE CYCLE
During the agitate bicycle, the agitate solenoid (the solenoid on the right side of the wigwag, as yous look into the back of the washer) energizes and pushes the agitate cam bar towards the front of the washer. (See Figures W-2 and W-3) The agitate cam bar does two things:
Figure W-3: Agitate Bicycle
1) The ramp cut into its shape lets the agitator fork drop down towards the transmission.
This engages the transmission and causes the agitator to arouse.
2) The pump lever moves, causing the pump to recirculate.
When the arouse bike is over, power is removed from the solenoid, and the cam bar moves towards the back of the washer. This disengages the manual and changes the pump back into the pumpout manner.
SPIN CYCLE
During the spin cycle, the spin solenoid energizes (the solenoid on the left side of the wigwag, as you look into the back of the washer.) The wigwag plunger pulls the spin cam bar towards the back of the washer. (See Figure W-4) This allows the clutch bar to drop, and the clutch spring and brake springs move the clutch yoke downward. The brake disengages and the clutch lining touches the clutch pulley. The clutch engages, and the basket starts spinning.
Effigy Due west-iv: Spin Wheel
When the spin cycle is over, or when the washer lid is lifted, power is removed from the solenoid. The cam bar moves towards the front of the washer, pushing the clutch bar and yoke upwards. The clutch disengages and the restriction engages, bringing the basket to a rapid stop.
This whole clutch and braking assembly is known as the basket drive assembly.
3-2 OPENING THE Cabinet AND Panel
See figure Westward-5 for details nearly opening the cabinet and console.
In raising the lid of the washer, information technology is better to utilize a putty knife. You can apply a sparse-bladed screwdriver, but you might chip or scratch the paint.
A wiring diagram is usually pasted to the back of the automobile.
Effigy Due west-5: Opening the Cabinet and Console
3-3 WHAT TYPICALLY GOES Wrong WITH THESE MACHINES
Diagnosis begins by checking to meet exactly which cycles the washer is missing or malfunctioning in.
For example, if the washing machine wont drain or spin, check also to see if it will arouse before you empty the tub. In this type of washer, you can pretty well narrow down the cause simply by knowing the exact symptoms.
Here are the near common complaints:
SYMPTOM: THE WASHER AGITATES BUT WON'T Drain OR SPIN.
In this design, the h2o level interlocks the spin bicycle. The handbasket will only spin if the water is pumped almost all the way out. If the pump is not pumping out water, the washer will not brainstorm to spin. Cheque for a kinked bleed hose. Too cheque the pump as described in Section 3-10. Often there will be a strong called-for smell forth with this problem. This is virtually always a locked pump; the burning odor comes from the stopped rubber belt riding on the turning motor pulley.
SYMPTOM: THE WASHER AGITATES AND DRAINS BUT WON'T SPIN.
(Clothes are dripping wet at cease of bicycle.)
Something is interrupting either the electric spin circuit or the mechanical spin mechanism.
The basket will not start spinning if the lid is up. A bad lid switch will have the same effect. Close the lid; if the basket even so does not spin, check the lid switch for continuity. Also check to see that the switch striker is not broken off.
If this doesn't solve the problem, test for power at the left (spin) wigwag solenoid when in the spin cycle. The easiest way to practise this is to unplug the washer and switch the red and yellow wigwag leads as shown in figure W-6. Plug the washer in and ready it in the SPIN wheel. If it AGITATES, then you are getting ability to the solenoid. Either the wigwag solenoid itself is bad, or the clutch is worn out.
Effigy W-6: Easy Wigwag Solenoid Coil Test
Put the wires back on the right terminals and lookout man the spin cam bar equally y'all showtime the washer in "spin." If the spin cam bar does non move, the wigwag is bad; supplant it as described in section 3-11. Check as well for a broken pin in the plunger. If the spin cam bar DOES motility, the clutch is worn out; run across section 3-15.
If switching the wires does Non cause the washer to agitate, and then put the two leads back on the right terminals and cheque the following:
The water level is sensed by the water level switch. If the switch is bad, the washer will not spin. Test the switch as described in sections 3-4 and 2-six(b).
Often ane of the wigwag wires volition break, usually very most the wigwag itself. Furthermore, the interruption may exist internal; you lot volition encounter no damage on the outside of the wire. Test the wires for continuity and repair if bad.
The timer contacts may be bad. Test for continuity through the spin solenoid circuit of the timer every bit described in section 2-6(c). If at that place is no continuity, replace the timer every bit described in section 3-5.
SYMPTOM: THE WASHER FILLS BUT WON'T Arouse, Drain OR SPIN.
The belt is probably broken; supervene upon every bit described in section 3-13.
If the motor hums, simply does non plough, Cheque as described in section 2-6(e). If the motor turns with no load, check the drive caster and pump pulley to meet which is locked. If the motor doesn't start with no load, replace it as described in section iii-12.
If y'all don't even hear the motor hum, the motor, motor starting switch or capacitor may be bad; run across section 3-12. Also check the motor circuits of the timer as described in department 2-half-dozen(c). As well check for a locked transmission as described in department two-5(c). If the transmission is locked, see section iii-14.
SYMPTOM: THE WASHER WON'T AGITATE, Only DOES Fill up, Drain AND SPIN.
When you ready the timer at the starting time of a launder cycle, the fill solenoid valve opens first. When the water level switch senses the correct water level, the solenoid valve closes, the motor starts, and the agitation (right) wigwag solenoid energizes.
Commonly this problem is a burnt out agitation solenoid, but there are other possibilities.
To examination the agitation solenoid, switch the wigwag leads as shown in Figure W-6. Make sure the tub is full and commencement the washer somewhere in the Arouse cycle. If the handbasket SPINS, and so yous're getting ability to the wigwag. Either the agitate wigwag coil is burnt or the plunger or pin is broken.
Another possibility is that the agitator spline is stripped, as described in section 3-13.
If the washer agitates very weakly, i.east. you tin can stop the agitator with your easily, this is a very stiff possibility.
The terminal possibility is that the transmission is cleaved internally. See section 3-fourteen.
Note: The lid switch is Not interlocked with the agitate cycle in these machines; they WILL agitate with the lid up.
SYMPTOM: THE WASHER DOES ABSOLUTELY Naught; NO FILL, AGITATE, DRAIN OR SPIN.
Bank check for power to the machine.
Bank check the main ability circuit through the timer; it may accept bad contacts. See department two-half dozen(c). Check the imbalance switch. (Kenmore models ONLY) See section 3-6.
SYMPTOM: THE WASHER IS VERY NOISY IN SPIN OR WHEN BRAKING.
The clutch or brake linings are probably desperately worn. If so, replacing the basket bulldoze will solve your noise problem. See section 3-fifteen.
If the centerpost (spin tube) bearings are worn, replacing the basket bulldoze will not solve your racket problem. You will need to phone call a qualified service technician to replace the bearings, or simply junk the washer. (I stress the word qualified, considering information technology is a specialized chore that many technicians will not tackle.)
The way to tell the deviation is to listen to the racket the motorcar is making. If the machine is making a squealing or groaning noise, the problem is more than likely to be the basket drive. If it is more than similar a rattling audio, the centerpost bearings are probably worn out.
A secondary cheque is to look at the clutch lining. On late models, there are three piddling pads riveted to the clutch plate. (Figure Westward-vii) Older models had a total disc lining, rather than the three little pads. The lining touches the clutch pulley directly when the clutch is engaged. If it gets worn likewise desperately, the rivets will screech confronting the clutch pulley. Take a look at the pads or lining. If information technology looks besides thin, information technology's probably worn out. Also audit the clutch surface on top of the pulley for any scoring or gouging. If there is any, your clutch is worn out. Replace the handbasket drive associates as described in department 3-15.
Effigy W-seven: Clutch Lining (Pads)
SYMPTOM: THE WASHER LEAKS.
Come across section 2-iv on leaks and backed up drains.
On these machines, leaks usually come from the pump (section 3-10) or the air dome or other tub fitting (section iii-9.) Sometimes, there will exist a leak in the make full
SYMPTOM: EXCESSIVE VIBRATION WHEN SPINNING.
If redistributing the wearing apparel doesn't seem to help, see Section 3-7 on replacing the snubber and cleaning the snubber pad.
INTERMITTENT SYMPTOMS.
Unremarkably, with intermittent problems, yous simply must know the arrangement and just await at things until y'all see something malfunctioning.
Some intermittent issues may exist traceable to electric problems, such as a loose concluding or worn wire. However, most intermittent issues with these machines come from mechanical causes.
For instance, if the belt is loose, the machine may not spin sometimes, may non pump out at other times, and notwithstanding other times it may non agitate. The solution is patently to tighten the belt (or supplant it if it is badly worn.)
Another aggravating and difficult to diagnose symptom is acquired by worn cam bars. The washer may appear to sideslip in and out of the spin cycle at very short intervals. Or it may kickoff spinning and all of a sudden terminate, so restart a minute later.
If the washer tries to spin and arouse at the same time, it normally means that the spin plunger is aptitude, or the spin cam bar is desperately worn.
In that location is as well a very stiff leaf spring that holds the cam bars downward in identify (Figure W-eight.)
Figure W-8: Cam Bar Foliage Spring
The bolt that holds this leaf spring in place has been known to dorsum out, or the jump tin can break, causing all sorts of foreign symptoms. The commodities tin can be replaced without removing the transmission, but information technology's a real acquit of a chore.
3-iv WATER LEVEL SWITCH
The water level switch is located in the control panel on height of the chiffonier. For admission to the switch, see section three-ii. Exam the switch as described in section ii-vi(b), using effigy W-9. If the water level switch is bad, supervene upon information technology.
Figure W-9: Water Level Switch
iii-5 TIMER
Test the timer as described in section 2-half-dozen(c).
Two types of timers were used: standard frame and quick-disconnect. (See Effigy W-10)
Figure Westward-10: Timers
To replace a defective timer, first unplug the washer. Pull the knob out, agree the timer punch and turn the timer knob to the left to unscrew it. (Effigy W-10)
The standard frame timer has a locknut that holds the timer dial on and six splines that keep it in place on the timer shaft. When re-installing the punch, you must go it in the right function of the cycle. Information technology tin only go on the shaft in half dozen dissimilar ways. If you've replaced the timer, y'all just take play with the dial until you get on the right manner.
The quick-disconnect has a D-shaped shaft that the timer dial just slips onto.
Remove the locknut, if necessary, and remove the timer dial. Remove the 2 timer mounting screws from the front of the console. If yous accept a standard frame timer, marking the timer wires before removing them, so you lot can get them on the correct terminals of the new timer. Better nevertheless, if you lot can remove the wires from the sometime timer and put them directly on the new timer, one past one, information technology tin can be faster and easier.
3-half-dozen IMBALANCE SWITCH (Kenmore only)
In SOME Kenmore models merely, there is an imbalance switch mounted inside the cabinet (on the left side, as yous look at information technology from the back.)(Figure W-xi.) If the load is not balanced, the base of operations plate (to which the tub is attached) will move effectually until it contacts the imbalance switch. The motor volition cut off and a buzzer will sound. The cablegram is built into the imbalance switch.
Effigy W-xi: Imbalance Switch
Usually, when they go bad, the washer volition intermittently cut out for no apparent reason. You may besides run across a vivid flash; this is the switch arcing. Sometimes, the switch may fire out altogether and it will seem as if the auto isn't getting any power at all. This switch is like shooting fish in a barrel to replace; just remember to unplug the machine first.
3-7 SNUBBER AND SNUBBER PAD
If the washer vibrates besides badly, and redistributing the clothes doesn't seem to aid, information technology could be that the snubber spring is broken, or that the snubber block or pad is choked up with lather.
Unplug the washer and raise the hat.
The snubber is in the right rear corner of the washer. (Figure W-12) Elevator the spring (at that place's a lot of tension on information technology) to remove the snubber block. Be careful not to grab your fingers under the jump!
Effigy W-12: Snubber and Snubber Spring
To remove the leap, remove the single nut and bolt that concord information technology in place, and twist it out of its mounts.
Make clean the snubber pad by wiping information technology with a wet towel or sponge.
Roughen the face of the snubber block a piddling with sandpaper, or simply take information technology outside and rub it on the sidewalk or a brick surface.
3-8 AGITATOR REPLACEMENT
Your agitator is splined to the transmission driveshaft, and secured with a stud. Admission to the stud is in 1 of ii ways. (Effigy Westward-13) Some have a removable plastic cap on summit; y'all simply pry it off with a screwdriver, and yous will meet the stud with a nut on it. In others, a jumpsuit threaded cap is screwed straight to the stud itself. To remove the threaded cap or nut, hold the agitator (this will keep the driveshaft from turning) and unscrew.
Figure W-13: Agitator Mounting Stud Access
Simply what if the anarchist splines are stripped? You can hold the agitator all yous want, and the shaft will keep turning with the nut or the threaded cap.
Here's a skillful confirmation of a stripped spline. Put the timer in an agitate cycle. Let the washer make full and begin to agitate. If you can hold the agitator still, and the nut or cap is reciprocating back and forth, the spline is probably stripped.
Here'due south a little fox to go the nut or cap off when yous can't concur the shaft yet; permit the machinery concord it even so for you.
If yous have a nut & stud, hit the nut with a little WD-twoscore and put a ratchet on it. Make sure the ratchet is gear up for the proper management; to remove the nut. Concur the rachet and offset your washer in the agitation cycle. The nut will back off with each sweep of the agitator shaft.
If y'all have a threaded cap, you lot can do the same affair by mitt. Just start the machine in the agitate bicycle and turn the cap counterclockwise.
3-9 BASKET REMOVAL AND TUB FITTINGS
To supersede any leaking tub fittings, you must remove the basket.
Unplug the washer and raise the cabinet superlative as described in section 3-two.
Remove the agitator equally described in section three-8.
Remove the snubber leap as described in section 3-vii.
Effigy West-14: Tub Ring Area
Remove the h2o inlet plumbing equipment from the tub ring. (Figure W-14)
Advisedly notation the sizes and positions of the tub ring clips as you lot remove them.(Figure W-fourteen.)
Remove the spanner nut. (Effigy W-15) A special tool is available from your appliance parts dealer. The tool is a very mutual particular and thus is pretty inexpensive.
Lift the handbasket direct up and out.
Figure W-xv: Spanner Nut
INSTALLATION is basically the opposite of removal.
Most of the tub fittings take prophylactic seals and locking nuts or rings. Merely twist the band counterclockwise to remove.
The air dome is the plumbing equipment that attaches the water pressure switch hose to the tub. It is a common source of leaks. To remove the dome, remove the hose from it and turn information technology 90 degrees to unlock information technology from the seal.
3-10 PUMPS
In this design, the handbasket will not start spinning until virtually all the h2o is pumped out of the tub.
Whirlpool washers were equipped, at various times, with 3 different pumps. (Figure W-xvi) In the parts houses, they are commonly known as 2-hose, three-hose, and four-hose pumps, for obvious reasons. Whirlpool washing machine pumps cannot be rebuilt; they must exist replaced. Fortunately, they're very common items, so they are pretty cheap.
Figure Westward-sixteen: Pump Types
REMOVAL
Drain the tub. Remove the dorsum console of the washer. Loosen the motor mounting bolts and remove tension from the belt.
Lean the washer back confronting the wall, post-obit the safety tips in section 1-4. Put a bucket underneath the pump and remove the hoses. Pull out the two mounting bolts and remove the pump. Rocking the pump away from the drive belt will aid disengage the chugalug, and also the pump lever from the cam bar. Do NOT Motion THE PUMP LEVER Nevertheless.
Check the belt for wear equally described in section 2-5(a), specially for burned or glazed spots where it rode over the locked pump pulley or motor drive pulley. Replace the belt if it is worn, post-obit the instructions in section 3-13.
INSTALLATION
Fix the pump lever in the same position as the pump that came out. Rock the pump in place, the same way every bit you pulled the old one out. Make sure the pump lever goes into the slot in the agitate cam bar, and install the mounting bolts. Tension the belt as described in section three-13.
3-eleven WIGWAG AND CAM Confined
The wigwag is located inside the back console of the car. Replacement is fairly easy. First, take all power off the auto. Notation which color wires go to which wigwag terminals and remove the wires. Loosen the wigwag setscrew and pull the wigwag direct off the shaft. Supplant the wigwag directly, taking care to get the right wires on the correct terminals. Too make sure that the plungers fit loosely in the wigwag then that they tin motility freely. Supersede the setscrew, making sure information technology goes in the hole on the wigwag drive shaft, and tighten securely.
Commonly, you will not need to supplant the plungers, fifty-fifty when you replace the wigwag. If yous run across that one is bent or the pivot is badly worn, replace the plunger.
The plungers can be quite difficult to replace. The pins that connect them to the cam confined are hardened and thus difficult to cut through.
The first step is to remove ability from the automobile and cutting through the pin. Employ a hacksaw blade, diagonals or bolt cutters. Clearance is tight. Sometimes information technology'due south easier to hacksaw through the body of the yoke than to cut the pin.
One time you lot've cut through the pin, remove the wigwag equally described above and replace the plunger, using the instructions that come up with the new plunger. Make sure you install the plastic insert. It keeps the machine quieter.
To replace the spin cam bar, you lot must driblet the transmission slightly as described in section 3-thirteen. To replace the agitate cam bar, you lot must remove the transmission as described in section 3-14.
3-12 Bulldoze MOTOR
Unmarried speed, ii-speed and three-speed motors were used at different times in these washers. The unlike motors were, at times, produced past different manufacturers. When you're replacing a motor, capacitor or motor starting switch, yous'll need either numbers off the motor or switch you're replacing, or a model number for the washer, to brand sure you get the right parts.
Annotation: On two-and three-speed machines (Those that have a "permanent press" setting on the timer dial) a timer failure was usually the crusade of a motor failure. If you supersede the motor in one of these machines, you lot must supercede the timer, as well.
TESTING
Some of these machines accept external capacitors mounted either piggyback on the motor or just inside the left side of the cabinet (as you lot look at the back of the washer.) If yours does, Belch It and test information technology as described in section ii-6(eastward) before doing any piece of work on the motor.
Now test the start switch every bit described in section ii-6(e).
If your capacitor and motor starting switch test O.K., replace the drive motor. Information technology is held in place by 2 mounting nuts.
3-13 DRIVE Chugalug
Open the back of the auto and inspect the belt as described in department 2-5(a).
If the belt is broken, make sure you check the pump and transmission pulleys to run across if they are locked. This may be the cause of the belt breaking.
REPLACING THE BELT
Unfortunately, the belt is not like shooting fish in a barrel to replace on this machine. To get the belt past the clutch shaft, you actually have to drib the manual out slightly, and sometimes the transmission needs to be realigned afterward. Hither are the steps:
ane) Prepare the car: Unplug it, siphon out any water, and lay it down on its front side using the condom instructions in section 1-4(4). Remove the back panel.
2) Remove the clutch yoke spring, (Figure W-17)
Figure Westward-17: Clutch Yoke Spring
3) Remove the braces and pump mounting bolts (Figure West-18)
4) Remove the lower left transmission mounting commodities. That is the mounting commodities next to the clutch shaft. Make certain y'all salvage the spacer that falls out.
Effigy W-18: Manual Braces and Pump Mounting Bolts
5) Yous must lesser out the clutch shaft. Concur the wigwag'south "spin" plunger up and tap the spin cam bar towards the back of the automobile. The clutch shaft will drop down towards the bottom of the machine. (Figure W-19)
Figure W-19: Bottoming the Clutch Shaft
half-dozen) Loosen the two other transmission mounting bolts nigh 7 full turns. Then pull the transmission straight out until it stops against the bolts.
vii) Remove the chugalug. If you accept trouble getting it over the clutch shaft, back out the transmission mounting bolts another turn or 2.
INSTALLING THE BELT
Installation is basically the opposite of removal, except for the following:
1) Await at the transmission shaft, right where it comes out of the transmission and goes upward into the basket bulldoze. On about models, yous will see a plastic "T"-begetting. (Effigy West-xx) This "T"-bearing is connected to the shaft by a ball; the ball fits in a pigsty in the shaft and a slot in the "T"-begetting. Brand sure the ball is in the hole in the transmission shaft, and that the slot in the "T"-begetting fits downward over the ball, before you lot tighten the manual mounting bolts.
Notation: Some models used a "C"-clip rather than a ball to concord the "T"-bearing in identify. If you take one of these, ignore this pace.
Figure W-20: "T"-Bearing
ii) The top of the clutch shaft has either ii washers or a hex nut on it. Make certain these are replaced before you bolt the manual back into place.
3) Make certain yous replace the spacer earlier installing the lower left mounting bolt.
four) To set the correct tension on the chugalug, loosen the motor mounts and motility the motor by paw. Practise Not utilize a lever or pry bar to set tension. The chugalug should deflect about ane/2" past hand, with like shooting fish in a barrel force per unit area. (6 lbs is the official number, though there's no real practical way to measure information technology)
If the belt has never been adjusted earlier replacement, the new belt will probably non require adjusting. Make sure that the belt rides over all four pulleys: the pump pulley, the manual drive pulley, the motor pulley and the clutch pulley.
v) You lot may go the machine all dorsum together and find that the spin cycle has problems. The auto may not spin at all, or information technology may spin very slowly. If so, the transmission needs to be aligned. This is a tricky procedure, so be conscientious:
Remove the 3 braces from the transmission. Back off your three transmission mounting bolts about 1/2 to one turn; just enough so the manual will migrate a little. The manual should be only slightly loose, and all iii bolts must be backed out the same amount.
Set your washer upright and level. Make sure there is no water or dress in the basket, and Offset THE WASHER IN THE SPIN CYCLE. Let it get up to speed, then stop the washer.
Unplug it. Without moving the washer, tighten the three transmission mounting bolts below information technology equally evenly every bit possible. Test the machine to see that it still spins properly. If not, repeat the procedure. When you have information technology spinning properly, replace the 3 braces.
three-fourteen Manual
If the transmission locks up, you will need to replace it; don't try to rebuild it yourself. They are pretty standard items; nigh appliance parts dealers carry rebuilt Whirlpool transmissions in stock. Make sure you bring the old transmission with you; they will need to match shaft lengths and there volition probably be an substitution or a core accuse.
To supersede the transmission, follow the same instructions as in section 3-xiii, with the post-obit boosted steps:
ane) Remove the agitator, as described in section 3-8.
2) Marker and remove the wigwag wires.
three) Remove the mounting bolts all the fashion.
four) Snap the yoke retainer out of the plastic clip on the clutch yoke (Annotation: some models used a jump clip rather than a plastic snap arrangement.) (Effigy W-21)
five) Pull the manual straight out.
Figure W-21: Yoke Retainer
When you get the transmission out, commutation all the old parts: cam confined and spring, clutch shaft, wigwag, "T"-bearing and ball, and the transmission bulldoze pulley. If you wish, y'all can supervene upon the cam bars, T-bearing and brawl as insurance confronting future bug. Two points to remember in exchanging the parts:
1) The drive pulley is originally assembled with a drop of gum on the setscrew threads. You may demand to rut the hub of the drive pulley with a torch to become the setscrew out.
2) To become the agitator cam bar out, yous will need to elevator the agitator shaft. The easiest way to practise this is to remove the "T"-bearing brawl and pry the shaft upward with a screwdriver, equally shown in Figure W-22.
Installation is basically the opposite of removal. Make sure yous read "INSTALLING THE BELT" in section 3-13.
Figure W-22: Removing the Anarchist Cam Bar
3-xv BASKET DRIVE
Yous cannot service the basket drive assembly, but you can supplant it if the clutch or brake pads are worn. The basket bulldoze assembly is non besides terribly expensive.
To remove the basket drive assembly:
i) Remove the agitator as described in department iii-8.
ii) Remove the handbasket as described in section 3-nine.
3) Remove the drive block past tapping on the underside of information technology with a small hammer. (Figure W-23)
NOTE: The metal of the drive block is pretty soft, and so don't hit it likewise hard--just tap it. Besides exist careful non to hit the tub, or y'all may chip the porcelain interior.
Figure W-23: Drive Block
4) Remove the transmission as described in section 3-xiv.
five) Pull the whole basket drive assembly direct out. Exist conscientious not to damage the lower seal. (Figure Westward-24) If the lower seal pulls out with the basket bulldoze, there is a special grease you can put in it. Inquire your appliance parts dealer for some. Put the grease in the groove of the seal and put the seal back in place, groove side upwardly.
Figure Due west-24: Handbasket Bulldoze Assembly Removal
Installation is basically the opposite of removal. Still, notation the post-obit:
1) Put the basket bulldoze in slowly so you don't damage any of the seals or bearings that it has to laissez passer through in the centerpost.
2) Make certain that the tabs on the peak of the spin tube fit in the notches in the drive block.
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