What Tools To Change A Water Pump On A 2013 Volkswagon Eos

Lately everybody and their mom has been posting nigh their water pump started leaking like it's breaking news that the pumps suck. For whatever reason people have gotten information technology in their heads that the intake manifold needs to come off to supercede the water pump. I don't know where that idea came from simply it'due south completely unnecessary unless for some reason you desire to practice about 2-iii times the amount of work and spend the coin to replace the fuel injector seals without any benefit. Since as of late I've been pointing out that there is literally no reason to remove the manifold to replace the water pump I've been getting lots of PMs about information technology. I had no intention of making a how to merely today I but then happened to get a 2009 Audi TT with a CCTA two.0T TSI engine that needed a water pump (it'southward the exact aforementioned engine, layout, and repair process as the VW's). I'm not going to going to go through every tiny step to betoken out each nut and bolt and explain how to wipe your ass, but I volition give yous a full general step by step rundown of what needs to be washed with some pics to go with it.

Getting started

Remove the airbox (ane bolt and a hose clamp)

Remove this bracket (two bolts)

The bracket is out, harnesses are disconnected, solenoid valve on the intake manifold unplugged

Loosen the pipage from the throttle body so from the bottom have the belly pan off, and undo the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle torso (hose clamp at the throttle body, quick disconnect on the intercooler, 2 bolts in the pipe and unplug the boost pressure sensor)

The pipe is out

Take the throttle body off (iv bolts)

Have the back up subclass to intake manifold off and remove the plastic coolant pipe into the front of the pump (i nut and ne bolt on the bracket, 2 bolts and hose clench on the pipage)

Get the pipe out of the style

Take the belt cover off, and undo the other hoses to the pump (two bolts on the embrace, and quick connects on the hoses)

Slide the belt off the side of the pump, unbolt information technology, and pull information technology out. No, your pump is non stuck to the engine... pretend y'all accept pair and put some muscle into it (v bolts)

That'due south it. It'south xxx-35 minutes from beginning to pump removed and in your paw.

Here is what you lot should supersede when you exercise the chore, the water pump, the water pump bolts, the union, and the o-ring that seals the plastic pipe to the pump. The union comes with new o-rings, yous can skip replacing the matrimony and just replace the 2 o-rings on it instead if yous cull.

When you're installing the new pump, put the union in the pump and slide it into the oil cooler, lower the drivers side and the belt slides right the gear then put the pump up into place. There are dowels to align the pump to cake, it'southward idiot proof. Make certain to lube ALL of the o-rings earlier you lot you reinstall connections. I personally accept used Sil-Glyde on every single coolant related o-ring for years, information technology's technically "brake lube" but it'due south versatile, information technology's crawly, and information technology works.

Once the pump is bolted in place, get the hose continued so the coolant system is sealed and so apply a vacuum filler to fill the arrangement. It uses compressed air suck downwards the cooling system and put it all in a vacuum, while the system is in a vacuum yous put the make full hose into a bottle of mixed coolant and open the valve on the filler, the vacuum will suck coolant out of the bottle and fill the organisation on information technology's own.

***** These steps are important *****

Volkswagen has released a couple "Tech Tips" over the years that are not listed in the repair procedures but are important to follow.

Subsequently y'all have vacuum filled the system, suck it down again a second time while information technology's filled and let it sit holding a vacuum for at to the lowest degree 10 minutes. Personally I get out it under vacuum until I've put everything else dorsum together and I'm done, then I release the vacuum and meridian off the coolant.

When the auto is completely done, everything is back together and you're prepare to go for a drive.... don't. On the initial startup with the new pump fire it up and allow it sit there at IDLE until information technology's reached full operating temperature, don't rev it, don't drive it, merely let it sit and idle. It will take xv-20 minutes.

It takes 40-45 minutes to get the car back together and ready to start. I was feeling actress generous today and so I took a moving picture of the tools I had out to do the chore. There's a couple more things not shown in the flick... long flat head, coolant drain pan, the vacuum filler, and a drill with the torx flake for taking the abdomen pan off. Equally you can see information technology'southward not a very involved job.